Since moving into the Fortress of Solitude, I passed a certain house every day on my way to school. The front of this house had an electronic marquee in the window that flashed, "Defend the dignity of law! No illegal home removing!" Note all those past tenses in the first two sentences, because they're important. See, like all their neighbors gone before, the "Dignity of Law" house is no more. And it kind of pisses me off. See, it's not exactly an uncommon thing - an area up the street has been sealed off and knocked down. These areas might be kind of dingy, they might be a little seedy (the one up the street had hookers), but they were REAL China. Not the slick shiny knockoff of other large cities around the world, but a thriving mess that was truly, authentically Shanghainese. And they're disappearing under the forward march of progress. So let this week's blog stand as a tribute to those alleyways, as I take you down one of the few that are left in Hongqiao.