Friday, October 28, 2016

Grub at Home: Korean (Part I)

I.  Love.  Korean food.  One of the best decisions I made when I lived in Korea was to ask Bronte to teach me how to cook some things.  Not only did the time we spent in her kitchen make us great friends, it means that in the five years since I've left I've still been able to cook some of my favorite dishes.  And I have quite a few recipes from her, so there will be future Korean posts, when I find all the ingredients I need.
One thing that Korea was great for was helping me grow up and eat my damn vegetables.  Instead of steaming them or cooking the flavor out of them, Koreans often pickle them, packing even more flavor into them and making them spicy, salty, sweet, and/or sour.  An easy pancheon, or side dish, that you can make is cucumber kimchi.  Here's how you make it:
Chop up a cucumber.
Chop up some green onion.
Mince in a small clove of garlic.
Add about a teaspoon of salt.
Add about a teaspoon of sugar (Bronte called this Korean candy).
Add about 2 teaspoons of red chili flakes.
Throw in a dash of pepper.

Taste it and see what you think.  You may prefer it saltier, or with more garlic.  Let it chill a little before you serve it - that's why I put this part at the beginning of this post.

Now that you've got your pancheon ready, you'll want a main course.  Among the simplest, yet tastiest, of all the dishes she taught me was...err, this one.  I don't think it really has a name.  It's kind of like bulgogi, because you make a marinade for your meat and stir fry it with some vegetables, but it's spicy, like dalkgalbi, yet doesn't have so many vegetables in it, and to add to the confusion, although she taught me to make it with pork, I haven't managed to actually do so even once.  If you need to call it something, go with gochu seogogi.  Spicy stir-fried beef.
You start with the marinade.  Bronte taught me that there are several ingredients that make up the base flavor of most Korean food.  Red pepper paste (gochu-jjang) and sesame oil are among them.  I started with about 100 grams of red pepper paste (sorry, I'm not sure what that is in standard measure - I bought the smallest package of paste and used half of it), 1.5 tablespoons of sesame oil, 3 tablespoons of sugar, and a bunch of green onions.  It should have a thick, paste consistency.  Mix all that up, and then add a pound or so of beef, or pork.  Mine was cubed beef, because that was what I found in the freezer, but it's better if it's sliced a little more thin.
Now for the vegetables.  Slice up a bunch of mushrooms, a green pepper and a red one (capsicums - I told you I use them for just about everything, didn't I? - not the small, spicier ones), and a small onion.  I suppose you could add some cabbage, if you wanted more roughage or a dish more like dalkgalbi,
You're also going to need to throw in several minced cloves of garlic, about half as much minced ginger, a dash of salt and a couple of pepper, and a sprinkling of sesame seeds.  After that, you just need to stir-fry until the meat is cooked.  The red of the pepper paste becomes more of an orange as it cooks.
Et voilĂ !  You have a reasonably healthy, incredibly delicious meal.  Regrettably, my presentation is not what it used to be.  During my final stint in Korea Bronte's influence resulted in my purchase of a really beautiful set of ceramic dishes.  Getting them home, however, was problematic, and the ones that made it there whole have stayed in my long-suffering parents' basement ever since.  I have not replaced them, buying only very cheap dishes if it was necessary.  Someday maybe I will be a real adult with a house and everything, and I'll crack out the good dishes.

Grub at Home: Evil Gazpacho

Two years ago, I turned 32 in DC.  I was visiting the Evil One, who was waist-deep in Spanish classes, a language she needed for her next (current - remember when I visited Peru last year?) post.  We had a picnic and watched Casablanca at Wolf Trap.  The next day after church we had a little birthday dinner with some of her DC friends, and she made me...something.  I don't remember what it was, but she decided it wasn't healthy enough on its own, so she made gazpacho as well.

I was not entirely sure that I was down with this.  I had no idea what gazpacho was - it's a Spanish soup, she reassured me, which was not altogether reassuring because I'm not much of a soup eater - but, hell, Evil is a pretty good cook and of the recipes I've collected, maybe a quarter of them come from her family, so I went with it.  And when all was said and done, I ended up adding this recipe to my book, as well.
It's two years later, and I've just made gazpacho for the second time.  It's a great recipe for summer, because it's one of only two soups I know that are served cold (the other one is Korean naeng-myeon, but I can't tell you how to cook that - sorry!)  Anyways, I decided I'd share the recipe for it with you today.  Here's what you need to do: chop up 5 tomatoes, 2 cucumbers, one red onion, and a green pepper.  I didn't want to eat gazpacho for the next two weeks, so I halved the recipe.
Next you have to start adding the juicy stuff.  Specifically, 2 teaspoons of garlic (I used two small cloves, and this was too much for my half-recipe), 4 cups of cold water, 1/4 cup of red wine vinegar, 4 teaspoons of salt, 4 tablespoons of olive oil, and 1 tablespoon of tomato paste.  I went out looking for red wine vinegar, but couldn't find it at either of the two closest grocery stores, so I decided to wing it with balsamic.  Was this a good choice?  Wait and see...
So after you've put everything in the bowl, mix it up, then let it chill so the flavors can mingle.  Doesn't look too bad, eh?  On the other hand, if - unlike me - you've actually eaten gazpacho before, you may be thinking it looks NOTHING like this.  That's because Evil's mommy (from whom the recipe originally came) doesn't blend it.  I like it just fine chunky like this, but since I am now the proud owner of Domestic Goddess' blender, I thought I'd give that a try.
As you can see, blending it changes it a LOT.  It tasted fine, and I didn't even mind the consistency; it changed it from being a really wet Greek Salad sans feta into an actual soup, although honestly I prefer the crunchy texture of the unblended version a lot better.  However, this is where substituting the balsamic was a bad idea.  It just doesn't look very appetizing anymore.  I had to do an image search to make sure this is what actually happened, and sure enough, it is not supposed to have this brown-ish color.  I think apple cider vinegar would have been a better substitution, although I didn't have any of that, either.  Thinking on your feet and making clever substitutions is something you have to do a lot as an expat.  I'll talk about that next Wednesday, so be sure to check in then.

Monday, October 24, 2016

Otaku Paradise

Girls in yukata at a festival = very anime

In the long history of my travels, this may go down as my all-time favorite trip*, even with all the mishaps.  Besides the fact that I was doing exciting and interesting things in the home country of my current favorite art form/storytelling mode (even just taking the train into Osaka from the airport, I could already tell I'd arrived, in the stretches of walking paths along rivers, the schools passed, the places the train tracks cross the road...scenes that in my last two years of watching anime have become as familiar to me as those from my own childhood).  Even better, I got to spend some time with the Kawaii Kid Kingpin.  (I don't generally change nicknames for people here on the blog, but at dinner the other night I said something about teenage boys, and then realized that he won't be a teenager much longer, so in honor of that - and in anticipation of the day when we will totally rule the world of anime merch with our totally gucci company - an upgrade.)  Put all that together and you have a recipe for a great vacation that not even Yukihira Soma could beat.

So the Kawaii Kingpin has been in Kyoto for over a year now, studying at Doshisha University, which means he has had time to find out all sorts of things.  One of the details he shared with me during the last year is that he lives next to a block-long shopping arcade which was the inspiration for an anime called Tamako Market.  I proceeded to watch it to see what he was talking about, and immediately loved it (except for the damn cockatoo.  Talking animals suck), so the first day we met up he took me to see it (along with his university, but really, who cares about that???)  At that time it was early evening and there were plenty of people walking through, shopping for all sorts of things.  In an attempt to not embarrass myself by acting like a complete tourist in front of him, I didn't take any pictures that night, but after my harrowing escape from Kibune, I ended up back there, so I took my pictures then.  Sadly, you don't get the same bustling sense of life when it's deserted, but it's the thought that counts, right?

One of the (many (non-snarky)) things we agree on is the fact that Kyoto Animation puts out some good stuff...including the aforementioned Tamako Market.  I do believe that he got a great deal of satisfaction out of telling me how amazing their newly released - ie, yet-to-be-translated, sucks to be you - movie, Koe No Katachi (A Silent Voice) was when we walked past the theater.  And again at dinner that night.  And again two days later, walking along the river, at which point, I thought, "Screw it!  If I can follow opera being sung in Italian, I can watch anime without subtitles."  So I asked him for a synopsis and a heads up on any parts I might not understand, and he did an excellent job.  He was right - it was freaking fantastic.  The theme was the main character's road to redemption, and along the way it dealt with bullying - great story and beautiful animation.  I was so glad I got to experience it on the big screen.

I tried to visit KyoAni's shop - it would have been great to take home a poster, or basically anything dealing with their work.  It's out of the way, unless you're coming back from Nara...which unfortunately I visited on Thursday, when they are closed, as I discovered when I got there.  Oh well, next time.  Instead, I made it late that afternoon to the Kyoto International Manga Museum.  They have a huge collection of manga that you can sit and read to your heart's content - or just stare longingly at if you don't read Japanese.  They also have a pretty legit display about manga's history and how it's made, from which I learned a thing or two before hitting the gift shop and getting one of my two new favorite books - a collection of manga artists' interpretation of masterpiece works of art.  It is unbelievably gorgeous.

I had two more festivals lined up for this holiday...big, cool ones.  And then the Kawaii Kingpin said it would be best if we went to Denden Town on the weekend.  Also known as, when my big, cool festivals take place.  It took me all of about five seconds' consideration to realize that crowded festivals - regardless of how cool - pale in comparison to the opportunity to go shopping for otaku swag with one of the people responsible for getting me hooked in the first place.  To his credit, he said we could try going another time, but honestly, I've been to quite a few festivals this week, and the ones I missed will still be here next year.  The opportunity to spend time with a friend, on the other hand, is irreplaceable.
Also, based on the shop he showed me in Sanjo, we were going to need a full day.  And lots of money.  So we met up at 11, on my last day in Kyoto, to take the train to Osaka.  You can get most of the way there on one train, then it's three stops on your transfer and a short walk to Denden Town and its vast array of shops selling all sorts of dope swag.  If you can't find it in one shop, try next door.  Or the door after that.  Cross the street.  Go down the block.  It seriously never ends.  The number of beautiful things I saw was overwhelming.'s tough being a woman otaku with reasonably good taste (ie, if you're not looking for Free! or One Piece, you're SOL).  Women with reasonably good taste are not the target market the industry shoots for.  I guess chalk it up to the fact that women typically aren't as visual, or maybe have enough sense not to spend hundreds of dollars on figures, no matter how gorgeously made (present company excepted).  That said, there were plenty of women in the shops we visited, so we are clearly willing to put some money where our collective mouths are.  I appreciated the sympathy the Kawaii Kingpin expressed when he recognized the gender inequality that my kind suffer from, and we decided that when we start our company that we'll work to address it.  But don't worry, I found a few things to spend my hard-earned money on - a few different small Naruto figures, a swing charm with Shinra from Durarara!!, and an art book for the next movie I will be watching, Kimi no Na Wa, which looks brilliant, and the Kawaii Kingpin assures me that it is.
Not disclosed: his job as a subway mascot

Finally, there was a little game I was playing called Things That Happen in Anime.  One evening walking along the river, we spotted a group of Japanese schoolgirls crossing the stepping stones in their uniforms, and the point was raised that this particular scene happens in SO many shojo manga.  So I decided to start seeing how many things we did that have happened in anime.  The fact that this game was going on will come as a surprise to the Kawaii Kingpin when he reads this, since I never actually clued him in.  Having watched - rough estimate - five times more anime than me, he has a distinct advantage.  Like, the kind of advantage Sora and Shiro have in No Game No Life against practically everyone.  Anyways, these were the ones I came up with:
1. The long-lost friend reunion - This played out a lot like when Sakura and Naruto see each other for the first time in three years.  We walked along, talking and catching up, while I was meanwhile thinking, "Wow, he's grown up so much."  Don't worry - just like Naruto, the Kawaii Kingpin eventually proved that he can still be as immature as ever.
2. Sharing an umbrella - This one didn't actually happen.  He called my umbrella ugly!  I wasn't about to offer after that, even if he was worried about the rain making his hair fall out (the most Korean thing I think he's ever said).  Besides that, my umbrella was teeny tiny - when I bought it in a downpour in Delft it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen and I loved the fact that it was small enough not to be a pain in the ass.
3. Pigging out on someone else's dollar - Two of my favorite anime (Noragami and Fairy Tail) both contain scenes where one character buys the others dinner...and they totally take advantage of it.  It's a bit of a stretch, but he bought my dinner one night, I bought his the next time, so I'm counting it.  Bonus - I didn't really make a big deal out of it, and I only did it the once, but when our curry arrived that first dinner I definitely relished saying, "Itadakimasu!"
4. Walking along the river banks - We were actually supposed to be cycling, but it is hard to talk and ride at the same time.  Cycling was my idea, and it seemed like a great idea at 8 in the morning, but after a long day filled with riding and being an outlaw (I haven't told you about that one...maybe next time), I was happy to walk a while.
5.  The giving of charms - I came up with this one while I was visiting Kodai-Ji.  Most temples sell lucky charms, each one for a different purpose.  I almost got him the matchmaking charm, but since he prefers his girlfriends in 2D, I didn't figure there was much point.  Instead I went for "Improve Skills."  We could be talking about his Japanese skills, or in art...not that he needs much help there.
My most valuable souvenir - original sketches by the best new mangaka
Friday night we went to a cafe...ostensibly for art time, and we did do a little show and tell, but mostly we talked.  At one point, the European (I've forgotten his specific nationality) sitting next to us cut into our conversation - I had been talking about the little Ranma 1/2 figure I'd gotten out of a machine in Shinkyogoku arcade, which the Kawaii Kingpin thought he might recognize.  The C in our A/B conversation said that it made him feel old, since that was his first anime, and we ended up explaining our relationship - that he was in university and I was his high school art teacher.  However, I realized later that maybe that didn't fully sum us up.  I'm incredibly impressed by how much his art skills have grown in the last year, and he always had the kind of encyclopedic knowledge that comes with loving something as much as he loves anime.  Although Mrs. Uzumaki was technically the one who first lured me to the dark side, watching Fairy Tail during yearbook meetings, it was his passion that fanned the flames, and as far as manga and anime goes, his skills surpassed mine long ago.  If you don't believe me, just check out the manga above, which he created for a class project.  He's truly earned the right to steal Darth Vader's line and say, "Now I am the master."

*I say "may" instead of "will" because we agreed that our next big adventure needs to take us to Tokyo, and - oh, the possibilities!

Saturday, October 22, 2016

Kyoto Light, Kyoto Night

As I began typing this, I had one day left in Japan, and I found myself wondering if it was a mistake to come.  Not because it was a bad experience, but the opposite - it has been a fantastic week.  Even if I haven't been here that long, I have a feeling of belonging.  It is not all jaw-droppingly beautiful landscapes and temples.  Taking the bus to Roketsu to make my noren, I had to admit that the buildings squashed in side by side were not the most aesthetically pleasing thing I'd ever seen...and yet, I love them, too, love the feeling that you could wander down a different cramped alley every day for a year and see something unique every time.  And if you wanna stick with temples and shrines, there are more than enough to keep you going for a good long while.  As we were walking through Sanjo my second day here, we passed two or three moderately large shrines.  Right in the middle of a shopping area!  It seems like most of them have some sort of festival at some point.  That afternoon when I'd gotten back to the house, my host Taka-san heard drums, and had me come to the window in the second floor of the house to watch a procession walk past.  That is the sort of sight I think I could watch all the time and never get bored.  In Kyoto, I'd have the chance to find out.

Take, for example, the Funaoka Matsuri.  Northward and west of the imperial palace is the Kenkun Shrine, which is where Oda Nobunaga is enshrined.  Oda Nobunaga is the warlord who essentially united Japan, bringing the Warring States period to an end.  I'm not much on history, although with several thousand years of it, I find Japan's much more interesting than America's.  However, I've been watching an anime about swords that have been turned into young men (yes, I know it makes pretty much no sense, but they're cute sword boys and I've watched enough anime at this point to be able to overlook most of the homoerotic overtones).  Their purpose is to protect the time stream from being changed, and in one episode they go back in time to make sure Nobunaga's assassination actually takes place.  When they were reminiscing about him, they didn't seem particularly fond, but at the end of the episode they were all kind of nostalgic.  I'm telling you this to give you some sort of background...if you really want some hard facts, you can wikipedia it.  Suffice it to say that he's kind of a hero.
So it's fitting that there's a celebration of his accomplishments and contributions to modern Japan.  It wasn't as crowded as the other two festivals I made it to - a little more solemn, too.  The whole thing was in Japanese, so I only had a vague idea of what was going on, but it was very interesting.  The ceremony started with music on traditional instruments, their cries sounding like heartbreak.  There were prayers - fortunately I go to church often enough to recognize an invitation to stand and bow your head, whether I understand the language or not - and various offerings where brought into the shrine by the officiators.  Then there were the performances.
There were four performances this year.  The first was a singing/dancing performance which - if I understood it correctly, was a variety of Noh, followed by a masked dancer performing bugaku (my knowledge of Japanese culture is not so extensive as to pull that out of nowhere...I used Discover Kyoto's website for my crib sheet).  The third was - I think - a geisha dance.  It was a graceful series of movements set to music by a lady - albeit an older one - in a gorgeous kimono, at any rate.  When she finished, branches were presented to VIP audience members, who presented them at the shrine, at which point the ceremonial part of it seemed to be over, although we had one final show - swordsmanship, with wooden swords.  The "winner" of the bout demonstrated his real sword on a rolled tatami mat, which lay before the shrine in three neat pieces when I got up to take a look.  And that seems fitting for a warrior's shrine.

Nights are generally downtime or shopping time when I travel.  It's been nice catching up with the Kawaii Kid on some of those nights, and at first when he told me he'd have to cut our Friday night meet-up short, I wasn't exactly thrilled, but we had a good chat and I was seeing him the next day...and then I realized that now that I was free, I could go up to Kodai-Ji and see the autumn illumination.  I really, really love the Japanese sense of aesthetics.  Sit under cherry trees watching the moon through their petals?  Sounds like fun to me.  In the fall, they kind of do the same thing, except with the changing colors of the leaves, and they call it momiji.  I may be missing the best part of it (again, WHY do I have to go home???), but Friday night the first temple on the schedule lit up their grounds, which they will continue to do til the end of November.

I love visiting temples at night.  They just have a different ambiance than during the day, as if the youkai are out to play.  Kodai-Ji was no exception, even with everyone wandering up and down the paths.  Even with the light show in the Zen rock garden....
Actually, I'm pretty sure I spied a few demons in the actual light show.  I'm not much of a fan of them, but I've got to say, this one was very well one point, the light transformed the sand in the garden into rippling water, and the gate turned to gold.  It was genius.
The most magical part, though, was the reflections of the trees on the water.  More than anything I wanted to see it in a week or two, when all the trees would be on fire and the air just a bit chillier, but the words of Frost echoed in my head: "The woods are lovely, dark and deep, But I have promises to keep,  And miles to go before I sleep."  There is still a lot to do before I bid my current school goodbye.

However, it is possible that my subconscious is neither a fan of Frost or else just didn't care, because it may have tried to sabotage me into actually staying this morning.  When I finally went to bed last night, I set my alarm for 6:30.  For some reason, the last time I looked at the flight schedule I scrawled into my travel journal, I locked onto my arrival time in Incheon (11:20), thinking it was my departure from Osaka.  When my alarm when off, I asked myself if I was feeling too lazy for one more walk - I never made it onto the Philosopher's Path, or got further into Fushimi-Inari-Taisha than the first knot of tourists.  And then I looked up my e-ticket, just in case...only to realize that my flight left at 9:30.  From Osaka.  Which was an hour and a half away.

From thence proceeded a string of profanities that probably woke up everyone in the house as I stripped and redressed in a panic, shoving my pajamas into my soon (I hoped) to be checked luggage - but I'm calling it payback for the snoring from the next room.  Blondie was right when she said that you can hear everything through traditional Japanese walls.  I clomped down the stairs, threw on my shoes and socks, locked the door and dropped the keys in the mail slot, as Taka-san requested, finally walking around the corner and on my way.  And then I realized I'd left my iPad on the counter.  For one moment, I thought, "Forget it - I don't like the darn thing anyways!" but that seems wasteful, even for me.  I got back to the door and was wondering how loud I would have to get to wake someone up when I realized that I was able to get the keys back - they hadn't slid all the way into the mail slot, and retrieved my technology.  A quick walk out to the street and a moment of panic ensued when I wondered if there were even any taxis on the streets at 6:50 on a Sunday morning, since that was my plan...spend a gajillion yen on a taxi, rather than miss my flight.  Fortunately the very kind driver who picked me up a minute or two later convinced me to take the airport limousine bus, and even though it seemed to be the slowest thing on the road, somehow I made it with just enough time to check in, get through security with the help of the very kind Korean air agent, and get to the gate before boarding.

Considering the number of mishaps I've had this week, you may be thinking, "Wow, what a gong show!  No way I'd travel with you!"  (Unless you're my dad, in which case you are probably thinking - for neither the first nor the last time - "Get your head out of your ass!")  But for the record...well, you're not entirely wrong.  I'm not usually quite this bad, though, and at least now you know that it's possible to get from Kyoto to Osaka and on your flight in less than three hours.

Arts 'n Crass

(Alternate Title:  Dye Another Day)
(Other Alternate Title:  Another Fun Thing to Do with Hot Wax!)

I love being an art teacher.  I love having the skills to make cool stuff, and understanding what went into the making of other peoples' cool stuff.  Sometimes I wanna laugh all the way to the bank on payday, because I have the best job in the world.  Spend time with smart-aleck teenagers showing them how to make their cool stuff even better and get paid for it?  That's not even "work."  They say find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life.  I don't know if I can say that's true - there are days when I run myself ragged, no matter how much I love it - but it's a pretty kickass situation.
I almost always hit up art museums on vacation.  It's my equivalent of meeting new people (and, in my opinion, a much better option, since you never have to feel awkward about not keeping in contact with a paintng...or deal with a painting that just won't stop trying to contact you).  However, it's only been within the last few years that I started making art when I travel.  I sometimes drew in my sketchbook or journal, but by and large I didn't learn new techniques or traditions.  That all changed when I took the brats to Istanbul, and ever since, I've tried to find some sort of workshop to do on my journeys.  Kyoto, however, beats them all.  I am spoiled for choice, to the point where I struggled to decide what I really wanted to do.
What I decided on, in the end, was a dyeing workshop and printmaking.  Dyeing because I've been jealous of Blondie's noren ever since she first invited me to her apartment, and I love the indigo fabrics, ai-zome.  Printmaking because I LOVE ukiyo-e prints.  The dyeing workshop took place at Yamamoto Roketsu Studio, which is in a small neighborhood in Western Kyoto that very fortunately I could get to with one bus, just down the street from the house.  It cost me 3,000 yen to make my own little curtains, which seemed pretty reasonable to me.  You could also make a pillowcase, wall hanging, t-shirt - there were lots of choices in what to dye...and even more choices in patterns.  They had animals, plants, subjects from the aforementioned, much adored Japanese prints, but my decision was made long ago - one of the photos on their website showed a Totoro design.  I just introduced the niblings to My Neighbor Totoro this year (yes, in English.  It's blasphemy to watch dubbed anime, but Disney does a pretty good job with the voice-overs, and the niblings don't read enough to introduce them to give them subtitles), and they all loved it...and I love them, so a little something to remind me of them on the other side of the world.
Once you have your design and your cloth, you create a dye resist (called roketsuzome) using melted wax.  It's very similar to batik - paint or stamp the wax on, and then dye it.  There are techniques that yield different results, though.  I was told to paint all the lines.  Then I had to paint them again to make purer white areas.  Then I painted a little more wax in some places to get a lighter shade of blue when it was dyed.  Finally, my sensei looked at it and said I could dye it.
He had me trade my Chucks for rubber boots, hung an apron around me, and put me in arm protectors and rubber gloves.  This seemed a little overkill to my devil-may-care art teacher heart (put an apron on a kid and they feel like you've just given them permission to make a mess), but then, I really didn't want blue hands for the next few days, so...  We soaked my white cloth and then dumped it into the black-as-night vat of dye, the surface speckled with bits of cast off wax.  He showed me how to manipulate the cloth within the vat, but something must have been lost in translation, because when he saw me later, he said that I was stirring it too fast, and the cracks in the wax would be to big.  With all the changes you could make, I really wanted to live here, so I could come back every month or two to try things differently.
It took a while for the dye to properly soak in, and then it was "washed" (sort of), left to oxidize (it looks kind of greenish when it comes out of the dye), boiled to get the wax out, washed (for real, with lye or some other agent), ironed, and finally, the little red ribbon thing was stitched into the middle.  My noren was finished - I'm pretty proud of the design I created, even if the execution could probably use a little work.
That was then...This is now.
The Kamigata Ukiyo-E Museum is actually a place I've walked past before.  In July 2008 Azhaar had a workshop in Osaka, and brought me along as her assistant.  At night, we wandered Shinsaibashi, having ice cream and taking weird pictures.  This was one of those pictures.  When I started looking for a printmaking experience in Kyoto, I saw that cat again, in one of the prints the Kamigata Museum offers to have you make.  I went back and checked the photo again and, sure enough, it's the same cat.
Printmaking was my favorite art form in college - after all the work you put in, you can make multiple original pieces of art.  However, I mostly worked with intaglio printing, which pulls the ink out of the marks you put on a metal plate.  I worked on one woodblock project, which never got finished, although I did linocuts before and since, being the kind of printmaking most accessible for art teachers (never trust a teenager with acid!)  But one of my favorite art styles is ukiyo-e Japanese woodblock printmaking.  You can think of it as a gateway drug to anime, if you see the same fantastic use of color and brilliant compositions in each.  So I'm fairly familiar with the subject, if not an expert.
Well, two years ago when I went to Tokyo, I managed to make it to the Ota Museum, which has a pretty spectacular collection.  They had a very nice display about the process of creating a print from beginning to end - first the artist designs it, then a specialist creates the woodblocks from the artist's designs, and finally, the printer does his part.  This is different from how I was raised as a printmaker...I did the designing, I did the cutting, and I did the printing.  It is also different in the tools that are used.  In the west, we apply our inks with brayers.  The Japanese use a variety of brushes.  Yesterday I got to do the printers job and use the tools firsthand.  The Kamigata Museum offers three different printmaking experiences - beginner, intermediate, and advanced - and since I wasn't sure about my skill level as an ukiyo-e printer, I chose all three.  This took less than an hour, and with admission to the museum cost 2,800 yen.
The museum itself was not huge.  Its focus is on Osaka prints, which are different from the more famous Edo prints because they focus almost exclusively on Kabuki, rather than pretty girls and landscapes.  The area where the museum is now was once a huge theater district, and the actors were the superstars of their day.  Since artists gotta eat, their work reflects this.  Most of the explanations are in English, and although it is a small collection, I found it to be really well curated.

The printmaking workshop took place on the fourth floor, in a tatami room decorated with photos of the old theater district.  There is a little coloring station, and when I made it up there, a girl was coloring while her mom was watching a video (fun fact I learned from the video - a huge, full-color 3-panel print back in the late 1800's cost the same as a bowl of noodles.  If you've ever wondered how these pieces of art ended up as packing material in boxes sent to Europe - which is how Western artists became exposed to them - now you know.  They were super cheap).  After my teacher had set out the materials - we used acrylic paint, rather than ink.  I'm assuming it's because acrylic dries hellafast, but she didn't speak English, so I couldn't ask - and I'd started my first print, I had to look over and see what she was doing, because I felt the table shake.  And then I realized it wasn't just the table - the whole building was shaking.  There were three waves of shaking, and then nothing.  Life went on.  I tried asking if that had been an earthquake, but the small amount of Japanese I've gleaned from anime doesn't include the right words.  Later on, when I met up with the Kawaii Kid, he asked if I'd felt it. Apparently in Japan you get texts when there's an earthquake - at the epicenter it was 6.0, according to his intelligence.  I've been present for earthquakes before - in Italy, Beijing, and even Mongolia - but never actually noticed.  I don't think that this is the sort of experience people hope to have on vacation, but I liked having it.  If I can manage to work here, it's one I will probably have again, so it's good to know what it is like.

Friday, October 21, 2016

Ninjas and Nara

One of the students who is responsible for sending me down the rabbit hole of anime was absolutely in love with a certain character, which you may have heard of even if you're not a fan of anime - Naruto.  So much so that she called herself Mrs. Uzumaki - which seems like a perfect code name if she shows up in the blog again.  She wanted me to watch it, and I did, starting with the second part of the anime, Naruto Shippuuden, but I just couldn't get into it.  A year and countless memes and references later, I decided to give it another shot, but started at the beginning, and this time I got it.  Naruto was awesome, although not my favorite character (that would be the super-sexy sensei, Kakashi...we could get together and read dirty books together all day...but I digress...)
When I went to Tokyo in 2014, I learned about a ninja village that I wanted to go to but didn't have the time.  This time around, I still didn't have the time, but instead there's a Ninja Dojo in Kyoto, which I found on TripAdvisor, and having been converted to Naruto and his way of ninja, it was definitely on my list.  I was a little nervous about the dress-up part of the experience, because my body is definitely not shaped like a ninja's...except for Chouji (and if you get that reference, congratulations, you're my new favorite reader).  However, they made it work.  It might have been a little harder if I hadn't worn black like they suggested, but I just happen to have a black knitted shirt that I've been occasionally casual cosplaying without anyone noticing.  Well, until Ichikawa Sensei noticed that we were sort of wearing the same shirt.
We started with bowing and ninja meditation, which involved some hand signs which seemed vaguely familiar.  I always just assumed the hand signs in Naruto were a made up part of ninja lore, but apparently not.  During our meditation, Ichikawa Sensei also talked about breathing in the energy of nature and concentrating it in your abdomen.  I might have totally fangirled if he'd called it chakra, but fortunately I was spared that indignity.

Meditation is all well and good, but I was looking forward most to some truly badass ninja stuff, and they delivered.  Sensei showed us some of the features of ninja dojos, such as the revolving door and hidden weapons, and then we got to use the weapons.  Ninja sword was first, and probably my favorite weapon.  We learned how to draw, slash, and then flick off the imaginary blood of our imaginary enemies, before sheathing our swords.  They weren't sharp, which was a very good thing, because at one point I sort of forgot where my thumb was while sheathing my sword, and I would have sliced it right off, otherwise.

Next we learned how to hold and slash with a kunai, the main advantage of which is that the enemy never sees it coming.  This was a little disappointing for me, because in Naruto they are throwing those things, all over the place, and I was picturing myself doing something kind of like this:
Using shuriken, or throwing stars, made up for this, though.  That was a lot of fun, and not as difficult as I thought it would be.  Aiming them was difficult, but I hit the board and got them to stick, most of the time.  They weren't really sharp...but if you hurl something with enough force, it doesn't have to be.
My best weapon was the blowgun though.  It was relatively easy to aim and shoot, even from the back of the dojo.  It's too bad that it doesn't look super cool, or else I might have found enough words to justify putting it in.  As it is, I'm about to fall asleep, so I'll move on.  By the way, all the photos I've used above were taken by the assistant at the dojo, whose name I didn't catch, but she did an excellent job.  They were provided as part of the experience.  If you're interested in ninjas, or Naruto, or hell, you just need a break from shrine-going, I highly recommend it - it was a lot of fun.
My...underbrats?  That seems like a good term for my younger favorite class.  My underbrats contain a significant number of Naruto fans, and this has probably contributed to their ability to steal the number 2 spot (along with their overall intelligence and ability to banter).  One of the things I love about this series is that there are so many interesting characters, and people are fans of more than just the two main characters.  One of my top underbrats likes the smart-albeit-lazy character, Shikamaru, who is a member of the Nara clan, who have a special bond with deer.
I took a great deal of pleasure in telling him that I was going to visit the city of Nara, which is famous for their park where tame deer have been living for over a thousand years.  They were really funny - you are only allowed to feed them special deer crackers, which are for sale every block or so for 150 yen, but they don't last long.  They look about as appetizing as a rice cracker (so, not at all), but the deer love the heck out of those things, and once they know you've got them, they will butt you with their head and even chase after you to get their fix.
I talked to Blondie at one point about my regret that I didn't get to see them the last time I went to Kyoto, and she said that she'd seen "the creepy deer."  Admittedly, it is a little creepy to see deer waiting for stoplights and using the crosswalks.  However, I didn't think they were that creepy until I remembered the part in Naruto where the deer actually play a part...watching over a defeated, undying enemy with those unblinking eyes.  

Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Shrine Maiden, Part 2

(Alternate title: I'm Too Tired to Come Up With a New Witty Title Tonight)

When I went to Kyoto the first time, everything I did was secondary to Gion and its geiko.  Back then, I was a relatively simplistic traveler; I went to interesting sites and took pictures.   These days I try to be more diverse in my interests (in spite of what I said yesterday about having a theme).  If you'd held a gun to my head before this trip and asked me what I was most looking forward to, I'm not sure I could have told you*.   While I was planning it out, I sat down and wrote up a list of the things I saw, eleven years ago: Gion Corner, Yasaka Jinja, Kiyomizu Dera, Fushimi-Inari-Taisha, Ryoan-Ji, Nijo Castle.  Only one of those places - the Inari shrine in Fushimi - was potentially on my list this time.  It wasn't that I didn't love the things I did's just that there is so much more to see.  I remember thinking, in the wayback, that three days was not enough.  Now I have a week, and I find it's still not enough.
"Self-Portrait with Bamboo"

One thing I didn't realize I was missing out on before was all the good stuff around Arashiyama.  I had since learned, thanks to the very visual nature of the internet.  Monkeys, bamboo, a kimono forest, and moss-covered statues were promised by my research...and then I found out that there's a...ritual?  Historical reenactment?  Little bit of both???  Whatever you call it - there's a thing that happens there every year, memorializing the days when noble families would send their daughters to become shrine maidens.  So I was down for the 16th.

And then I found this really cool waterfall shrine that is supposedly in the hills northwest of Arashiyama, and I decided that I had to go, even IF IT KILLS ME.  So I got up at the buttcrack of dawn, hightailed it out of my airBnB, and caught the very conveniently located bus to Arashiyama.  The 93 bus let me off very close to the Nonomiya shrine, which was awesome, because it was the starting point of the Saigu Procession as well as the starting point I gave Google Maps for my route to Kuya no-Taki.  Google told me it would take me one hour and ten minutes on foot, which meant that I would have plenty of time to get back before the procession started at noon.  I hopped off the bus and was ready to start hoofing it when the bus driver honked at me...I'd forgotten to put my wallet back in my backpack, and the couple getting off the bus behind me had turned it in.

Oops.  Well, at least I found out firsthand that this experiment really is indicative of Japanese honesty, and had a chance to practice my "Arigato!"

Anyways, I walked uphill.  And walked some more.  I "found" Otagi Nenbutsu-Ji, which was one of the places I wanted to visit, halfway along my route, and decided I'd better see it after the waterfall, just in case I ran out of time.  And then I started walking DOWNhill, and through a tunnel.  This was not the most welcome change of pace, because I was really looking forward to having the return trip be easy.  I don't do well with uphills at the end, and my cousin wasn't here to rescue me again.  Fortunately, at the end of the tunnel I found the Kiyotaki bus stop, so I planned that I would take that back.  Which was good, because I'd already been hiking for an hour, and Google said there was still a long ways to go.

Two things Google may not have fully taken into account.  First, I'm fat.  When I hiked the Tiger's Nest in Bhutan, I trained for it.  And by trained for it, I mean that I hiked like twice in the months before I went.  This time, I hadn't hiked since the family reunion, and although I have been walking every morning, it's not exactly strenuous.  Secondly, the route is all uphill from Kiyotaki.  Now, in theory, Google knew this, because there are topo lines on the map, but I don't think he really took it into account.  At least, that's what I want to believe, because the alternative is that I'm even lazier than I think.

Either way, when I should have been at the waterfall 30 minutes ago, I began to wonder if maybe, maybeee I should head back.  But what if it was just around the corner?  That would haunt me forever.  So I asked one of the many, many hikers who was passing me if we were close to the waterfall.  "Waterfall?" he asked, puzzled.  I showed him the spot I had marked on Google maps - which was in Japanese, so the language barrier can suck it - and he consulted with his son.  And his phone.  As his consternation got worse, undoubtedly because he really, really wanted to help this stupid gaijin but had no idea what to say, I realized I must have made a horrible mistake.  Finally he said, very apologetically, that there wasn't a waterfall this way.  Maybe it was another trail.
"Umm.  Yeah.  I should be getting back to town anyway, I don't want to miss the procession.  Arigato!" says one of the bigger idiots in the world.  And sure enough, at the base of the trail, I realized where I'd made my mistake.  If I had followed Google's directions exactly, I probably wouldn't have missed my actual turn off, but someone just had to walk across the pretty bridge and see the river flowing underneath.  To be entirely fair to myself, it was a pretty spectacular view, even if I haven't done it justice (it has been an awkward week.  I have come to the realization that I am not contributing equally to my relationship...with my camera.  It does all the work and I never push its buttons).
I made it back to Kiyotaki bus stop just in time for the 10 am bus to Arashiyama.  I looked at the route and thought it might stop by Otagi Nenbutsu-Ji, but I wasn't entirely sure - the names didn't quite match.  What the hell, I thought, I'd see if it was the same, and if not, I'd chill out in Arashiyama until the procession started.  The bus pulled up to a very narrow tunnel through the mountain, which it turns out would have cut at least a half hour off my walk, but luckily I didn't know that so I got to save up my stupid decision making for last night's burst of idiocy.  On the other side...voila!  Nenbutsu-Ji and it's thousand (not exaggerating - it's actually 1,200), moss-covered Rakan statues.  This is a temple that was built and rebuilt and rebuilt again, most recently between 1981 and 1991.  Rakan are Buddha's disciples, and all of these were carved by worshippers who supported the restoration (if that little string of factoids sounds uncharacteristically factual, it's because I'm paraphrasing the pamphlet that they gave me when I paid my admission fee).  The thing that I really loved was how each Rakan had a very different, unique personality.  The amount of expression carved into each statue was brilliant - take these three, for example.  You can totally tell they are sleepy, happy, and dopey.
After leaving there, I tried to make it back to the Nonomiya Shrine relatively quickly.  It was hard, because there were a lot of little shops along the way selling stuff that was really cute and it's hard to say no to cute in Japan...they do it really well.  However, I didn't want to be that poor, unfortunate soul who can't see anything or even move because they got to the party too late.  The procession thing was supposed to start at 12, and it was around 11:30  by then.  I started down the path between the bamboo groves, and figured out pretty quickly that I was almost at the shrine by all the participants in their very cool costumes.
With all the anime I have watched in the last two years, I have seen a lot of the different kinds of clothing, but it was very cool to see it in real life.  There was a ritual portion of the program happening inside the shrine, but thanks to the moron in front of me (who has yet to realize that your camera is steadier when you tuck in your elbows...I can at least do that for my Big Gun) I couldn't really see, so I moved a little forward so that I'd at least be able to see people as they walked past.  The two ladies in front of me were both quite short, so that worked out well, and I enjoyed watching everybody making last-minute fixes as they prepared for the procession.
Finally, all the chanting and bowing and everything else inside the shrine finished up, and the princess came out in her fancy pants kimono to get inside the palanquin.  The carriers hoisted her up and pointed her in different directions, I'm guessing so that everyone could get a good look.  And then everyone set off, parade style.  They walked through the bamboo groves and along the street I arrived on, til they got to the river, where she was scheduled to perform a cleansing ritual.  I, however, was dead tired, and the bus was coming up the street.  I figured the monkeys and kimono forest and the onsen and anything else appealing about Arashiyama could wait for another day...or another trip.

*Lies!  All lies!  I was most looking forward to a shopping trip in Osaka with my favorite former student.  It is NOT a good thing that we are getting paid tomorrow.

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Shrine Maiden

It occurs to me that if my life were a novel...let's say a light novel, being in Japan and all...the theme would be "experiencing things that can't be seen."  This strikes me as ironic, considering how much I love taking pictures, but still I've written before about the fact that most of what I do - in travel as well as other aspects of my life - has a spiritual theme to it.  My favorite anime almost all include aspects of higher powers.  If you extend this to include fantasy, then basically everything of any nature I willingly choose to read or watch is included.  I even take my history with a healthy dose of mythology - who needs hard facts and evidence when you can spin tales of the gods?  What can I say?  Mundane reality is kind of boring.
Today I decided I would go to one of Kyoto's bajillion shrines - literally.  Sunday afternoon a couple of foreigners stopped to ask me where the shrine was and I had to stop myself from laughing in their faces.  Shrine?  Which one???? -  that I missed eleven years ago.  Daigo-Ji is more than a little off the beaten track, its mountain being tucked behind already-off-the-track Fushimi-Inari-Taisha.  But then I saw a shot of this scene, and decided I had to go.  That is way too gorgeous to pass up.  Sadly, the fall colors haven't hit their high note yet.  Engrish got me all fired up talking about some thing she'd seen on the interwebs about Kyoto's fall foliage, and I was hoping to see some of it, but by and large the party hasn't started.  Still, totally worth it.
There is a final ticket booth before you enter the area leading up to that scene.  (I assume the pamphlet they gave me explains what that building is, but I got better things to do than read brochures on vacation, so I guess I'm going to keep calling it that).  After you buy your ticket, or have it torn, if you bought it already, you enter this densely wooded grove.  When I stepped inside, I was hot and sweaty - the sun had been beating down and October in Kyoto feels a lot like July in Ulaanbaatar.  As I walked up the path, suddenly a chill breeze blew toward me, and when I stepped out of the grove at the other end, the skies were cloudy.
It felt as it I had stepped into a different world, one where scenes like this are actually possible.  I wanted to lie down in the sun on that patch of moss and pull it over me like a blanket, build a house there and start raising baby Totoros.  The amount of beautiful places like this that exist in or around Kyoto is mind-blowing.
Finding things to do in the evening is always a challenge for me, and when I found myself pondering what to do tonight, I came up with a genius plan...I was going to go to yet ANOTHER off-the-beaten-track shrine place.  I didn't think I was going to get to go to Kibune, but having nothing better to do, I decided dinner, a shrine visit, and a soak in the onsen was in order.  Thus, I hopped the train bound for Kurama, getting off at the Kibune stop, and walked over to the bus stop that would take me up the hill.  It was 5:24.  The last bus came at 5:24.  I counted myself lucky and headed on up to the village, admiring all the waterfalls along the narrow, poorly lit road along the way.
I walked up to the shrine, figuring I'd have dinner at a restaurant so it could get good and dark before I started shooting.  Except, all the restaurants seemed to be closed.  Kibune is famous for their kawadoko restaurants, set up on platforms over the river that keep you nice and cool during the summer.  Unfortunately, summer is behind us, the amount I have sweated in the last few days notwithstanding, so they were all closed.  Nevermind, I told myself, I've survived all day on a single cookie - I'll manage a while longer.  I went ahead and took my photos, and started walking back down the hill, til I got to Kibune onsen, which the bus had passed on it's way up.  It was nice, but small, with only 5 pools.  Since I was the only one there, I wasn't too bothered, but it probably gets crowded when it's not 6pm on a Tuesday night in October.
Alright now, here's where it gets interesting.

Actually, it gets boring from here.  Mom, if you've been reading this, you should stop now.  I left the onsen all fresh and clean, walked outside, and - poof! - I was back in central Kyoto.

Is she gone???  Cause actually, it got a little scary then.  See, the bus wasn't running anymore.  I was way the heck up on the side of a mountain, in the deep, dark woods, with a decently long, poorly-lit road running alongside a rushing creek between me and the train station.  AND I have been reading this sort of creepy urban fantasy book for the last week or so, with nasty things lurking in the dark trying to kill each other.  This was either a terrible time to have an overactive imagination...or a good one, I guess, if you want to look at it that way.  I can't remember all of the 23rd Psalm, but I remember that good line about, "Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me."  And it seemed entirely apropos all of a sudden.  When that started to feel repetitive, I started singing hymns.  It probably says something about my spiritual state that I have forgotten a fair number of words, but then, how many songs can you sing perfectly with all the words?  That's what I thought.  And then - hallelujah! - a very nice Japanese lady pulled her car over and asked if I would like a ride?  But what did I do?  I told her it was okay.

Yes, you read that right.  I literally fucking - excuse my language, this was supposed to be some sort of spiritual post and it has degraded into profanity, but I can't express my sheer idiocy without it - I literally fucking told her, "It's okay."  Now up to that point, it had been okay.  The road wasn't perfectly well lit but there were street lights pretty regularly and no monsters had jumped out of the woods to devour my soul.  But just around that corner, there were no lights.  The road continued to wind.  The station was not right there like I suppose I must have thought it was - I felt like I'd been walking for a while.  So she drove off and when I realized what I'd just educators we say, "You made a bad choice."  And then the praying really got intense, alternating with me freaking out on myself a little.

I believe there is a lesson there for me about making bad fucking choices and how it leads to walking in the dark, but I try not to get too religious on my blog, so we'll leave it where I'm most comfortable - with profanity.  Which probably demonstrates said lesson in some way, but again, I'll leave it at that.