Holes in the Story

Stop me if I’ve told you this before: one thing that makes Japan unique is its manhole* covers.  Almost anywhere else in the world you go, these discs of iron are relatively plain, utilitarian items.  Japan, on the other hand, has a sense of aesthetics to maintain.  Throughout its artistic history Japan has never been satisfied with simply making functional objects, when they can make them beautiful as well.

Nowhere is this as evident as right by your feet as you walk down the sidewalk.  On my walk to church each Sunday I pass a variety of sizes of sakura manhole covers.  It has probably occurred to me - about the time I was working on mixed media - that it would be really cool to take rubbings of the different sizes and use them to create a huge, mixed media piece.  I haven’t been as enthusiastic about this idea since I discovered that plum blossoms were WAY better flowers, but I haven’t entirely given up the idea of making some collagraphys, either.

Now some of these covers are plain metal, but not all of them.  Some are inlaid with enamel, making them even more eye-catching.  And one of the best things about Japan’s manhole covers is that each city has its own designs.  Those sakura covers are only found in Tokyo, as far as I know.  Yokohama has the bay bridge on theirs.  Himeji’s has their famous castle.

This element of collectibility, where you have to catch them all as you travel, has led to a class of beings called...I kid you not...manholers.  I first learned about this pastime through This Is Colossal, although there have been several news stories about them over the last several years.  And since Japan loves its festivals, it should come as no surprise that someone eventually thought to capitalize on it and create a manhole celebration...and in fact, that is exactly what Tokyu Hands in Shinjuku did about a month ago.  They brought examples of different manholes from all over Japan as well as all sorts of merchandise for the hardcore manholer to enjoy.

After my relatively recent encounter with Golden Kamuy macarons I had to try these beautiful treats (sadly, they were not even on the same level).  Even more, though, I enjoyed their hands-on activity - the opportunity to finally, FINALLY, print with one of these bad boys.  I’ve been dreaming of printing something with a Japanese manhole cover ever since I read about some Germans who were printing with far less fancy covers (but who, sadly, never responded to my teacherly query about what kind of ink they use).  Now I have a nice canvas tote bag with that Tokyo sakura cover printed in green.  What I need another tote bag for beats me, but it was totally worth it, especially since it put me up to the 2,000 yen needed to draw for a prize.  I got exactly the prize I wanted, too - a button that proudly proclaims that I’m a manholer.  Because who wouldn’t want something as perfect as that???

*if the word ”manhole” makes you snicker every time you hear it, that might explain why we’re friends.